TIPS FROM THE SURVEYORS!
Top Things You Can Find/Fix On Your Boat Before You Sell It
(and before the surveyor finds them anyway).
This belt is cutting a hole right through the sea water intake hose which could spell disaster. The pulley is also rusty, another no-no that leads to premature belt failure. This is a good example of the things surveyors look for and a project best repaired by the pros. Photo courtesy Bill Schiffner.
Here at UsedBoats.com, we recently spoke to a number of professional marine surveyors who inspect pre-owned boats for a living and then prepare reports for prospective buyers and others including insurance companies. If you are getting ready to sell your boat--whether through a broker/dealer or on your own--one thing's for sure. You want that surveyor's report to be a short as possible so your boat appears in its best possible light! One way to do that is to fix a number of items on your boat before the surveyor gets there, and most of these are simple, easy repairs that may require nothing more from you than a little sweat equity.
Across the board, the tips supplied by our team of surveyors fell into two categories: cosmetics and safety, so let's take a look at each one separately.
1) Cosmetics: Get Your Boat In "Showroom" Condition
You would think this would go without saying, but too many of our surveyors reported stepping aboard filthy boats that--with a little elbow grease and commonly available cleaners--could be brought up to bristol condition and thus be much more appealing to prospective buyers
a) Hull condition: Make sure your hull is cleaned and waxed. The finish is paramount to getting and holding the buyer's interest. Make sure the gel coat is shiny and free of chalking. A properly compounded and waxed hull will set a buyer's mind that the boat is well maintained. Also, check the detailing strips (vinyl striping). It is sometimes better to remove the strips entirely than to have a ratty looking strip that makes the rest of the hull look bad. You can replace the strip too, but that's best left to the pros. A fresh bottom paint job gives the boat a clean and well-maintained appearance.
b) Bilges and machinery space: Pressure wash or scrub the bilge while the boat's on land and let the water run out the plug and into an approved container for proper disposal with waste oil. Dish washing detergent like Joy is very effective in clearing oil from the bilge under the engine. The engine itself should be cleaned, and touch-up paint over any rust will go a long way in indicating a good maintenance record.
c) Interior: Shampoo and vacuum the rugs, wipe down the overhead liner, clean the head, make sure you have de-odorizer in the holding tank (after you've pumped it clean and flushed with water), and remove seat covers when possible and have them dry cleaned. And finally, remove all unnecessary items that do not need to be aboard when showing the boat. Boats that look uncluttered and roomy are definite plusses in the mind of the buyer.
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2) Safety and mechanical
a) Batteries: Should be boxed, covered, and secured from movement. Check terminals for corrosion and tight connections. Make sure the terminals are covered to prevent accidental shorting.
b) Fire extinguishers: Mounted in separate, readily visible locations and inspected annually. Fixed fire-suppression systems in the machinery space should also be inspected annually. Flares must be current.
c) Life jackets: Should be clean and readily accessible.
d) Night navigation: Ensure all external lights (masthead, side lights, sternlight, anchor light) are in operating condition, and the horn is functioning properly.
e) Through-hull fittings: All sea cocks should open and close with little effort. Never force a seacock to open or close if the boat is in the water. Look for corrosion, leaking, and cracks.
There are two problems here. First, the seacock is frozen open since the yellow handle is immovable. Second, the hose leading to it shows multiple cracks which could lead to leakage or complete failure, and when you need to close a seacock, you need to close it NOW! The boat should be hauled and both replaced. Photo courtesy Hewitt Schlereth.
f) Fuel lines: Inspect for cracking, bulging, leaks, and defective clamps and fittings.
g) Exhaust system: Raw water leaks will usually be evident with staining or corrosion around/below the failed union. Have these repaired by professionals.
h) Pumps: Ensure all bilge pumps are working properly including automatic float switches.
i) CO Monitors: For cabin boats you should have a carbon monoxide monitor. Test for proper function.
j) Steering systems and trim tabs: Check for tightness, dragging, and play. Hydraulic systems should be checked for leaks at the pump, reservoirs, and actuator. Also check trim tab reservoir for leaks.
k) Hose clamps: Ensure that all hoses located below the waterline are secured at each end with two hose clamps if there's room to do so.. Clamps must be all stainless steel (screw too).
l) Electrical: Check your GFCI outlets to ensure they are working and breaker is not tripped. Look elsewhere for loose, damaged, or corroded wires and connections, and if you find them, have them professionally repaired.
m) Stuffing boxes: If your props run thru stuffing boxes (as opposed to today's more modern dripless shaft seals) ensure the drip rate is mimimal at the shaft logs and rudder posts.
n) Filters: Ensure that all sea strainers are clean and free of debris, and you may want to replace fuel- and oil filters to ensure they are clean as well.
Hopefully if you observe this list and fix what you can, your surveyor's report will be as short and positive as possible, leading to a fast sale!
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS/SURVEYORS:
Capt. John Wenz, NY City Area. survey@jbwenz.com
Capt. Manny Rebelo, NY/CT Area. captmanny@optonline.net
Capt. Ron Svoboda, Florida East Coast. ronsvoboda@yahoo.com
Bill Schiffner, Florida West Coast. schiffnermarine@aol.com
Hewitt Schlereth, Southeast Florida. hhew36@gmail.com
